Fuel Hose and the dreaded E10

Early Bay Forum

Help Support Early Bay Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

gagvanman

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 24, 2011
Messages
529
Reaction score
95
Location
Grantham
Checking my bus over today for a possible trip out this week. The hose from my Huco electric fuel pump to a tee piece is 7.6mm R9 hose and from the tee piece to my twin ICT's is 5.5mm 100% Bio Fuel Hose from advanced fluid solutions.
Both were fitted about 2 years ago. I regularly check them but guess what, the bio hose is perfect but the R9 is cracked.
Just ordered some 7.3mm from AFS, won't be going anywhere until that is fitted.
 
I fitted my fuel lines years ago and i have to say they still seem in great condition, one issue I have had when messing with the carbs is that I have had a leak on the fuel inlet which almost ended in tears on my drive! I now use Hylomar Hylotyte Red on any joint along with the correct hose clip. This combination works great.

I do need to change a plastic fuel filter under the tank, again been there as long as the hoses but due a change before it splits..... I have used Super at ever fuel stop since the changeover.


 
I have some ethanol resistant hose from Cool Air, had it for 4 years and still fine. Also I only use Esso Synergy Supreme, which is ethanol free. BUT just checked their website and found this:

We currently supply an ethanol-free Synergy Supreme+ 99 unleaded in some parts of the UK. From September 2023 our Synergy Supreme+ 99 will transition to contain up to a maximum of 5% ethanol at all Esso pumps irrespective of which part of the country they are located. The labelling at our pumps will remain as E5 for Synergy Supreme+ 99 unleaded.
 
I replaced my lines years ago with stainless pipe from the tank to the engine bay, then Cohline bio hose from AFS to pump and carbs. Hard pipe where it passes near the heat exchanger, so less chance of a fire.
That section is far more likely to deteriorate due to being exposed to heat and the elements.
Used the same branded hose for carb balancing and tank breather lines.
Stainless Oetiker clips on most fittings, double clipped where it's possible and stainless pipe clamps where it may need to be removed more often.
Go stainless if you can, it's not affected by water, oil or pretty much any chemical and it's far tougher than copper if it gets knocked.
A lot of folks seem to think stainless is too expensive but it really will last forever and I think it was way cheaper than the Cohline hose by the metre.
Looks much nicer than dirty green copper as well.
 
I run Gates barricade hoses, I pulled one off last year to check it, and sliced it open, after 7 years it still looked new inside, it had stiffened up some from the heat in the engine bay, but it had no cracks or degradation of the cover either
 
I replaced my lines years ago with stainless pipe from the tank to the engine bay, then Cohline bio hose from AFS to pump and carbs. Hard pipe where it passes near the heat exchanger, so less chance of a fire.
That section is far more likely to deteriorate due to being exposed to heat and the elements.
Used the same branded hose for carb balancing and tank breather lines.
Stainless Oetiker clips on most fittings, double clipped where it's possible and stainless pipe clamps where it may need to be removed more often.
Go stainless if you can, it's not affected by water, oil or pretty much any chemical and it's far tougher than copper if it gets knocked.
A lot of folks seem to think stainless is too expensive but it really will last forever and I think it was way cheaper than the Cohline hose by the metre.
Looks much nicer than dirty green copper as well.
Interesting, how have you supported the hard line from the tank outlet to the firewall ? Did you use P clips, also is your hardline continuous through the firewall or a join there?
 
Used small bits of the cohline hose pushed over the stainless pipe to make it fit the original clips. Passes through bulkhead/gearbox tin with a join engine bay side. Then stainless to the pump with a short piece joining. Used the centre of the HT lead clamp to secure at the fan housing.
 
I'll try to get some pics if it's helpful.
The piece from the tank was not easy to manoeuvre into place. From memory, I partially bent it then completed the bend in-situ after getting it through the gearbox tinware grommet.
For securing you could use "P" clips but didn't seem necessary to disturb the originals, they grip the pipe nicely with the hose to pack it out.
The reason for the join at the tinware is because it is hard pipe. The pipe is secured at the engine as well as the tank bulkhead. The two move independantly so would stress and eventually fracture the pipe if there was no flexible join.
If hose is used straight through it tends to wear away at the bulkhead so best to have a hard pipe through the grommet like original and use the right size, good quality clamps.
* Make sure you tape or cap the pipe ends when fitting or you'll end up with shite in your fuel/carbs.
 
*Hose wears at the tinware grommet not bulkhead. And by bulkhead, I mean the surface the original clips are attached to from the tank. It's been a while since I was under there.
Got a reverse sensor to fit soon, I'll try to get photos.
 
It's nice to see what options folks go for. That sounds like a nice setup.
Have you changed your carb and pump barbs and tank noodle for an8 fittings?

PTFE really is resistant to just about any chemical and will last a long, long time.
Looked at stainless braided ptfe but it's not cheap. My 34ict carbs, and OG "style" mechanical pump have the 5.5/6mm barbs. The cohline biofuel hose is a perfect fit and at the pump the barbs are very close so any wider hose will not fit.
Would be a lot of hassle and expense to change fittings too.
My main point was to avoid copper or cupronickel as modern ethanol fuels will degrade the copper, form sludge inside and eventually block the pipe or carb jets. Copper also looks awful after a while and has very little mechanical strength so will dent or bend easily.
Great for brake pipes or plumbing and it coped well with the old 4* petrol but not fit for fuel systems these days. There are so many better options.
Biofuel hose all the way is a reasonable option but I would protect the exposed run from tank to tinware with a sleeve or copex type outer sheathing.
 
Funnily enough i checked my fuel lines a day ago because i check everything all the time with my ocd and i replaced my main fuel line with Cohline a year ago and the main line from the tank to the pump is absolutely fine and no probs at all but the small pipe from the carb to the second terminal on the fuel pump is R9 and was cracked and perished so guess what i have coming in the post, yep more Cohline 🙂. The R9 SAE is not good quality and it does perish within 12 months so get the quality lines on folks 🙂🤙.
 
Last edited:
Guys, ignore the R9 rating if you aren't using fuel injection.
The SAE30 R9 spec is more to do with handling Fi pressures than nasty fuel.
The Cohline biofuel hose is tried and proven to be the best option in a rubber "OG" type hose. AFS are a reliable, trusted supplier.
There are fakes out there too, anyone can print anything on a hose.
Check this shocking example:
Several years ago I bought "Codan" biofuel hose from JK and it stank something awful. An acrid, nasty, cheap rubber smell. There's no way it was proper biofuel hose and when I queried it they refunded and didn't want it back either. They were likely supplied some dodgy hose and didn't realise until I complained.
I checked it against sample photos from Codan and some suppliers and there were notable differences in the print on the dodgy one.
Until recently, and I hope none do now, most air-cooled parts suppliers were still selling the OG DIN spec hose from the 70's and newer specs of nitrile based hose, which modern fuel will permeate through in no time, even moreso if left idle for long periods.
Whichever decent option you choose, it's not really expensive considering it's purpose, safety and the confidence that everything is OK round the back.
 
All very interesting - thanks for the information. I’m off-road at the moment, and will be for a while, but will check out in the future. I imagine an automatic fire extinguisher in the engine bay is a good idea.
 

Latest posts

Top