Firing order…??

[YellowBay69]

Hi all - basic question. Just getting my engine ready for a test fire (in engine stand)
I’ve set plug gaps. Dizzy arm gap and rocker valve gaps.
Just checking plug leads and dizzy rotor arm are all in right order.
When firing engine does it spin clockwise ?
Can establish tdc and rotor arm for No1 plug at No1 cylinder.
Think i’m getting confused between 1234 when spinning pully anti-clockwise and assuming it’s 1432 when spinning clockwise….
but then you know what assuming does !!
Any help appreciated.

 

[YellowBay69]

Sorted !!!

 

[Clem]

Hope the dizzy is sitting correctly, as if its been mis assembled the dizzy 'can' be 180 degrees out.
And if correct, massive/advance/retard adjustment 'can' misalign 1/2.

 

[YellowBay69]

ok Clem - glad you said that. I was struggling. Couldn’t line up dizzy rotor with what should be No1 position.. it was at 180*.
Checked dizzy driveshaft again and I was 180* out.
So turned pulley to get dizzy driveshaft lugs in line with pully with offset on the back/pully side (as Haynes diagram) Checked TDC notch on pully in line with crankcase seam at top and checked No1 piston was at full compression. I guess that’s true TDC Checked No1 rocker gaps and they’re all out now (bigger gaps) so despite my best efforts I think I was out 180* !!!
does that make sense?

 

[YellowBay69]

Will re set rocker gaps and hopefully will be all set for the big fire up !!

 

[matty74]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/14331694...jyx1vbkQnq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

This little sticker sits very nicely in the recess at the top of the fan shroud

 

[sparkywig]

Some aftermarket distributor drives are 180 degrees out, especially 009 distributors, so you need to check when fitting.

 

[YellowBay69]

Pretty sure it’s the original. It’s a vac advance one.

 

[YellowBay69]

Some aftermarket distributor drives are 180 degrees out, especially 009 distributors, so you need to check when fitting.

So going back to the beginning- assuming that it’s all stock. It all should be as follows.
Pully notch at 12oclock in line with crankcase seam.
No1 piston at full compression
Dizzy driveshaft lugs in line with pully and offset towards back /pully.
Rotor arm at 5pm - No1 plug lead.

 

[YellowBay69]

So put in stand and fired here up. She got good oil pressure, no leaks but didn’t want to fire up unless I squirt petrol into carb.
So disconnected fuel pump hose and turned engine over - no fuel getting through. I’d rebuilt the fuel pump a while back so guess it’s either been reassembled wrong or something has failed.
However whilst turning over the engine i noticed that the coil on the top of the carb was getting hot (to touch - not glowing!) is this normal?

 

[YellowBay69]

picture

 

[67panel]

It has a heat element to turn choke off so will be hot.

 

[YellowBay69]

So turns out it’s more fuel push than fuel pump !!
I didn’t realise it was gravity fed … bloody amateur hey !!

 

[YellowBay69]

View attachment FullSizeRender.MOV

 

[YellowBay69]

Easy when you know the answer

 

[YellowBay69]

Will double check timing at idle and do some carburettor whispering. Then she can go back in.

 

[shiddot]

Good job! However, the fuel pump should definitely be able to pull the fuel through, even if the tank is below it.

 

[67panel]

Yes I have never had to gravity assist a pump, fuel can on floor has always worked for me (apart from daughters full on drag motor that didnt have a pump!!) Do you have correct push rod for pump, thats the sort of thing having a short push rod in a tall pump will do.

 

[YellowBay69]

Thanks for info - I was sure it should pull fuel in. Yes I have correct push rod - does pump need priming ??
Might need to take apart…again.
There’s a spring loaded valve and a spring flappy thing as well.Is the Flappy thing ‘open’ until under pressure ??

 

[67panel]

both the valves should be shut in resting position.