theres a slight play in the rear wheels of my bus

[hippysteven]

hi there , i have rebuilt the rear wheel and braking system on my early bay because it failed on the MOT , i have replaced the bearings and greased them up, replaced the seal and even the wheel shaft on either side , however the is still abit of play in the wheels and i'm abit worried that the MOT tester will fail it , has anyone else had this problem , what can i do :?

 

[Hilly_70]

I think there should be a small amount of play on there mate ...

.. but only a little ..

Do what I do ... start to talk to the MOT man when he looks at the bit you thinks a bit iffy!

Hilly

 

[hogseye]

i fitted new bearings (good quality) so did a mate and we both still found play. thats the way it is with old shi**

 

[dave]

just had new rear wheel bearings on mine and still have a little play. i think there is supposed to be a bit, i ve got about 1 mm at edge of tyre. only just noticable.

 

[Trikky2]

Thats correct when cold. Its the way they came out the factory. If you have bearings with no play when cold they tighten up when warm and create excessive pressure and friction. Apart from the extra drag slowing the vehicle and wasting fuel, the bearings would also wear out rapidly.

Theres quite a few that have been replaced unnecessarily because people detected play and replaced before checking the actual factory guidlines - ask me how I know :lol:.

Anyway, if the bearings really are worn and need replacing then you will hear the familiar rumbley groaning whine of worn bearings that gets louder when you take a bend and the play will be a lot more than 1.5mm at the wheel rim.

 

[ianscooby]

i've got to ask but how did you tighten the hub nut as we had a problem after changing a drum and it was caused by me not tightening enough (even though a jumped up and down on a power bar) we down cornwall at the time and the boys at 50-67 sorted us out with a big scaffold pole with the a socket welded to it. I never thought a nut could take so much pressure :shock:

 

[currylager]

I usually tighten them to ensure they are tight but also to allow a point when i can fit a new split pin easily. The nuts on my 68 drums were surprisingly easy to undo, but there was no evidence of them trying to shear the split pins in any way :roll: . So i would do them fairly tight but not stupidly tight, but there may be a torque setting you can use in a repair manual for piece of mind

 

[Trikky2]

The torque is 250ft lb.

You dont need a torque wrench. With the socket bar horizontal, 250 ft lb means exactly that eg. a weight of 250 lb pushing down on the end of a 1ft bar or half that weight on a 2ft bar or a quarter of that weight on a four ft bar etc.

Take it up to a bit under 250 ft lb and then look to see how the split pin holes line up. Then tweak up until the pin goes through the hole. Simples.