rear chassis notch pictures??

[Gadget Boy]

Hi ya Nick

if you look at the photos above , you can see the inner rear chassis braces have been removed, this is due to the depth of the notches into the chassis rails. The inner braces weld to the chassis exactly where the notches need to be , Hence why there removed. On later buses , Im pretty sure its 75/76 onwards the factory deleted them anyway. The box section you can see welded above the chassis rail is 2 x 4 box steel an is the same width as the chassis ( Actually the chassis is 45 mm wide ) But it is stronger than the original chassis ur cutting out and puts back some much needed strength back into the rails. If you look at the picture Evil Ben has posted you can see the infill piece that Ben has welded in for strength from the rear of the torsion housing ( This would usually sit behind the spring plate ) to the chassis rail of the bus .

I cant emphasise enough that if People take the time and effort to research modifications to there buses first , Then we can all build safer stronger buses . It only takes one poorly modified vehicle to be stopped by the police or Vosa and they wont fuck about , they will take it off the road , impound it due to having dangerous modifications done to it , AND we will all end up getting stopped and checked over by them ....


Modify safely kids 8)

 

[squarebob]

I just finished my rear notches, it's still hot! I looked at a few pics and decided to do mine in two pieces so I could close the box section.

 

[andewilson]

here is some of mine. didnt go the tube route as i already had the metal lying around

 

[andewilson]

oh and i did a bit on the front too

 

[Nick-Rackham]

Hi ya Nick

if you look at the photos above , you can see the inner rear chassis braces have been removed, this is due to the depth of the notches into the chassis rails. The inner braces weld to the chassis exactly where the notches need to be , Hence why there removed. On later buses , Im pretty sure its 75/76 onwards the factory deleted them anyway. The box section you can see welded above the chassis rail is 2 x 4 box steel an is the same width as the chassis ( Actually the chassis is 45 mm wide ) But it is stronger than the original chassis ur cutting out and puts back some much needed strength back into the rails. If you look at the picture Evil Ben has posted you can see the infill piece that Ben has welded in for strength from the rear of the torsion housing ( This would usually sit behind the spring plate ) to the chassis rail of the bus .

I cant emphasise enough that if People take the time and effort to research modifications to there buses first , Then we can all build safer stronger buses . It only takes one poorly modified vehicle to be stopped by the police or Vosa and they wont fuck about , they will take it off the road , impound it due to having dangerous modifications done to it , AND we will all end up getting stopped and checked over by them ....


Modify safely kids 8)

Cheers Gadget, I've used 60mm square 3mm section box above the notches tied into the shock tower, so theory says I've now got more metal in that area than I had before. Totally agree that it's got to be safe. I was a bit concerned that the weak point appears to be just behind the shock tower and was thinking of adding a fillet in the rear of the shock tower to the chassis for extra strength and piece of mind? I've left the inner torsion bar to chassis braces where they are as it leaves as much OG metal in as possible.

Cheers for the advice, Nick

 

[ground hugger]

This is what you wanna do

Rob

Hi,
Has any one got the dimensions for this type of chassis notch. what dimensions of the box section ,the lengths ,angles etc. etc .my thinking is if I could have them made up before hand it would make it a lot quicker and easier...ta da :idea: well that's my thinking anyway :lol: there's a guy on the samba selling these at $150+shipping ...thinking this would be to much£....Cheers...Dave

 

[Spencerpritchard]

ring rayvern hydraulics he sells a c notch kit for less than £300 1/4 inch steel its the dogs gonads.. and if u want the job doing im bristol based we done a few now. 0777 5448757

 

[ground hugger]

ring rayvern hydraulics he sells a c notch kit for less than £300 1/4 inch steel its the dogs gonads.. and if u want the job doing im bristol based we done a few now. 0777 5448757

I can fabricate and fit them my self ,just wanted the easy life as not having to work every thing out trial and error. Good to know though for anyone else interested ,have you any photos of these c notch's and the ones you've fitted...help promote your work.....Dave

 

[neilswheels]

If your gonna put big notches in,like those box section ones, you want to get them in BEFORE, you cut the chassis. The plate kits are the way to go, weld on the sides, then the top, cut out the chassis leg then put the bottom in.
There's a good thread here
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123065" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
on fitting a notch kit,although yank car based, principal is the same.

The tube is a great option if you dont want mega drop, also called a 'C' notch, has been used on rods for years. Again though, you may want to reinforce the top of the chassis rail if you make a deep C notch.

 

[Myvanway]

Anyone seen Matt Balls's rear notches, or had them done?....... pics please.

 

[Rob b]

Lovely bit of kit matts kit is here's a little photo of one I welded in Eden bay


This is how it sits

 

[Trikky2]

This is how it sits

That is hilarious :lol:

 

[marmite monster]

I like this thread

 

[Myvanway]

Lovely bit of kit matts kit is here's a little photo of one I welded in Eden bay

Thanks for that Rob b. 8)

 

[Karmann70]

Anyone seen Matt Balls's rear notches, or had them done?....... pics please.

Yep

 

[Cookie]

Lovely bit of kit matts kit is here's a little photo of one I welded in Eden bay


This is how it sits

Hi
Is this something you do bay tripper?? If so how much supply and fit

Thanks.

 

[Mr Bean]

Hi, just admiring some of the welding skills top notch. I've got a 70 bay crew cab that I wanted to fit a Subaru 2ltr n/a engine and gearbox was thinking what sort of work would be involved in fitting it in line ie with the engine under the load bed floor realise that a gearbox mount would need making and assume something would need doing to the torsion bar. Any ideas would be a great help. Hope I've posted in the right section.
Cheers