1303s gearbox in my bay

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AxlFoley

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today I started the process of fitting the 1303s box in my bay, I have taken some photos and have a few questions.

fist thoughts are that it should be simple enough with no additional brackets being required, just the modification of the original one.

Bay - here I have measured the distance from the selector rod to the bottom mounting bolt, its about 115mm
2011-02-06125720.jpg

1303s I have done the same measurement on the 1303s box, its a bit crude and not too clear, but again its about 115mm, its a hole rather than a stud.
2011-02-06125753.jpg


this is the early bay mounting bracket, my plan is to cut where I have hashed (badly) this is to allow for the different shape of the 1303s box, and drill two additional holes that line up with the holes on the 1303s box, the bottom bolt will line up with a hole already on the 1303s box.
1303sbracket.jpg

I just found this photo on the parts emporium, it shows the thremounting holes in a 1303s gearbox
beetle_late_gearbox_nose_cone.JPG


as for the CV joints, I had some Golf Mk2 ones lying about, give them a try and they fitted perfectly,

any comments queries or advice before I cut the bracket?
 
Mark good luck with this I had a long conversation with gadget last weekend about the same you may want to pm him it doesn't sound as hard as it's made out so I'll be doing the same with the dc box I have
 
I have a 1303 gearbox in my bus, it is quit easy… I have some pics of the modification here:
http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9603" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
You have to prolong the shifter coupler 1.5 cm. I just cut up another coupler and welded them together. I think it is easier to make a new bracket, than reuse the old one. It has to be a bit longer!
I can give you the measurements if you like?
And you have to modify the clutch cable bracket.

Jesper
 
Ian - I was going to message you today, have you still got your drawigs for the bracket?

Danborn - your bracket looks to be quite long, did you do this to ensure the driveshafts were in the same place, I may have to have another look at this.

Thanks for the link to the photos.

Mark
 
Well yes, the type-1 gearbox is shorter than a bus box, and you need both the axels and bell housing to be in the same place in order to have the engine mount to line up!

Jesper
 
i just spaced off the bay mount on the bug box 19mm , extended the shift fork 19mm added another piece of bowden tube to the existing to reach the mount on the box and had to extend the clutch cable to reach, you may beable to change that for another year?? the best thing you'll ever do to your bay ;)
 
AxlFoley said:
Ian - I was going to message you today, have you still got your drawigs for the bracket?

Danborn - your bracket looks to be quite long, did you do this to ensure the driveshafts were in the same place, I may have to have another look at this.

Thanks for the link to the photos.

Mark
Here somewhere gis a call if you need it but I don't think you'll need it, you back working local if so I'm offices based so home in the evenings now
 
Dirty Harry said:
There are special conversion kits to do this.
1365352.jpg

Oldspeed in Paramount USA makes them.
They sell with draft shafts which you don't necessarily need which is where to cost is
 
I was going to say, i cant see the need for the shafts.

that bracket looks a bit heavy duty, im only running a 1600 lol
 
Does anyone know if the 1303s boxes are strong enough for a bay with 140+BHP?
 
Johnny said:
AxlFoley said:
I was going to say, i cant see the need for the shafts.


i was led to believe they are completely different lengths?

They are, why would you run spacers and add a weak point when you could just fit the right length axles? :lol:
 
if is stock you may need the longer shafts but not lowered and most are lowered, why would you want all that stuff and spend money that you don't need to!! you could buy some horseshoe plates instead :D :D :msn4:
 
Slammed said:
Johnny said:
AxlFoley said:
I was going to say, i cant see the need for the shafts.


i was led to believe they are completely different lengths?

They are, why would you run spacers and add a weak point when you could just fit the right length axles? :lol:

Based on that responce all lowered busses should run shorter axles due to the change in distance from the inner and outer CV joint :p
 
AxlFoley said:
Based on that responce all lowered busses should run shorter axles due to the change in distance from the inner and outer CV joint :p

I had one of these kits and it had everything there to make the job easy. The shafts were a little longer, it had a gear shaft extension and longer clutch cable........but I know that Deano made his own bracket and used og shafts and been running like it for years.

With your skills Mark you will sort it easily.
 
AxlFoley said:
Based on that responce all lowered busses should run shorter axles due to the change in distance from the inner and outer CV joint :p

Just saying, don't see the point in running spacers for this conversion when the right length drivesahfts are available. :)
 
Slammed said:
AxlFoley said:
Based on that responce all lowered busses should run shorter axles due to the change in distance from the inner and outer CV joint :p

Just saying, don't see the point in running spacers for this conversion when the right length drivesahfts are available. :)

I wont be running spacers, I'll be running the standard driveshafts, but with Golf CV joints.
 
AxlFoley said:
Slammed said:
AxlFoley said:
Based on that responce all lowered busses should run shorter axles due to the change in distance from the inner and outer CV joint :p

Just saying, don't see the point in running spacers for this conversion when the right length drivesahfts are available. :)

I wont be running spacers, I'll be running the standard driveshafts, but with Golf CV joints.

Sounds like a good alternative, didn't know it was a possibility
 

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