My 69 Westfalia - Oxyboxer engine

[tmatre]

I found this thread on The Samba, where John at aircooled.net helps many users to jet their carburators correctly, but also some megasquirt users..

My AFR target was 14:1 at idle, 12.8 at WOT and 13:1 at power, but at light cruice my target was 14:1
That causes high exhaust temperatuires and hotter running engine. You need to avoid the death zone between 13.5 and 16 This picture explains:

I tried to target 16:1 for ligt cruize, and played with the ignigtion, as less fuel at light cruize requires more advance
Im gettiong closer, but there is still some missfiring with engine spees between 1200 and 2200 rpm at light throttle.
I therefore targeting 13:1 and did some road mapping. I am really happy with the engine now, and the head temperature dropped a bit

I had already pulled back about 2 degree at WOT, as leaner WOT requires less advance than 30-32 degrees

For Decel I targeting 20-22:1

 

[tmatre]

I have used the car with the oil cooler mounted under the car until now. The oil temperature rises a bit when the car is driven at speeds above 90 km/t, but is stabile below 80 km/t even at the steepest hills.
I think the fan is unable to draw air through the cooler when air is passing under/over cooler at higher speeds. I could have made some scoop to force the air through the cooler...

The fan housing fixing is not sufficient when the bolt normally attached to the back of the oil cooler (doghouse) is missing. The fan housing flex too much
I therefore ordered an Oxy oil cooler adapter/bracket from Rocky Jennings, and then attached a new T4 oil cooler to this bracket.

The bracket will be bolted to the oxy case, and allow the fan housing to be bolted to the oil cooler

I am also a bit worried about the dynamic CR of this combo
My current static CR is 9.02, Dynamic CR 8.57
aircooled.net : Use a compression ratio from 7.75-8.25:1 for the CB2280 camshaft
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Eagle-Type-1-Camshaft-Cheater-Cam-Grind-CB2280-p/cb2280.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have decided to add copper head gaskets when pulling the engine for oil cooler replacement

 

[tmatre]

Upgraded brakes, new wheels and a bit of drop 8)

Rear:
Complete Vanagon/T25 drum brakes
The guide pin in the back plates was larger, so the hole in the bearing housing had to be drilled out a bit.
The wheel cylinders are bolted from behind, so the threads in the bearing hosing also had to be drilled out.
Earlybay handbrake wire is used.
These brakes was selected as they got automatic adjustments
The drums has an outer edge, i therefore had to install longer wheel studs, and add 8mm spacer for the 5 spoke wheels to fit.

Front
Complete late bay spindles/brakes
Earlybay brake hose

I still use the Earlybay MC, just removed the residual pressure valves to the front wheels

This is a nice thread for late brakes on earlybay
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=556325" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

One spline drop in the rear
CSP adjusters installed in the front end, adjusted to the same height as the rear end
The bump stop is replaced with some low profile urethane bump stops
The tires is 195/70 15 in all corners, but I may change to 185/65 in the front

 

[tmatre]

Ambulance sliding door step restored and ready to be installed.

The sliding door bracket sandblasted and treated with Ferrobet. I will blast once more before applying Epoxy primer and paint int with in the campers original color.

I got the bellypan's installed on my camper. Does anyone know if it is possible to remove the bellypan, mount the bracket and use a hole to create two holes for the lower brackets?
If that is not possible, i will store the original bellypan and may create a custom one

The spring that holds the step in place when the door is closes is missing.

Does anyone know where to source this part?

And if any of you got this step installed, it will be happy if you could measure the distance from the door edge to the bracket.