Drop Spindles?? TransporterHaus, FrenchSlammer or T2D

Early Bay Forum

Help Support Early Bay Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

dublicious

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2011
Messages
458
Reaction score
2
Location
Suffolk
Hi,

I finally have the funds to sort the front end out on my 1970 bay. Currently slammed on stock beam with adjusters, near full adjustment, and rides hard! Already have T2D adjusters on the rear and they are great.

I want to buy and install drop spindles, but from who? My current school of thought is TransporterHaus and T2D as they offer a 3.5" drop allowing me to relax the beam adjusters greater and give me more scope in the long run and smoother ride! T2D seem a little expensive but look quality and like that TransporterHaus are not welded.

Also what shocks should I marry up with drop spindles?

Appreciate your time and help

Take care

J
 
How low do you want to go?
Is your beam narrowed at all?

There's only so low you can go without narrowing.
Moreover there's only so low you can go without tubbing.

THaus and T2D use reverse ball-joint trailing arms with their modified spindles.
You can use your original arms using the FrenchSlammer ones.

I have a narrowed beam, tubs, and THaus dropped spindles. FrenchSlammer ones weren't available when I bought mine years ago, but I would seriously consider them now! I have it set nearly as low as possible on the adjusters and because I have the right shocks and tyres, the ride is real nice!

In terms of which shocks - I bought mine from Alex @ VWHeritage (I forget what type, sorry).
Getting the right length for your desired height is key. You need to put the bus on the ground without shocks, then roll it back and forth and jump around on it a bit to let the suspension settle. You then measure shock mount to shock mount the find the middle of your shock height. Fit the wrong height shocks and it will drive like dog dirt.

Tyres are important too, as you will no doubt be running lower profiles. You need a good, strong sidewall for our vans to roll on.

Last up comes tracking/alignment. Get it done at a proper place. I did it myself once and was out by 1deg on one side and 3 on the other. I could tell the difference after it was set up properly.
 
Hi,

I suppose that is the question, I dont know how low I want to go in the end hence thinking going for drop spindles with the most scope. My beam is stock, not narrowed and wont be tubbing.

With the FrenchSlammer ones using original arms wouldn't the ball joints have to be up rated?

I will be going low profile once again I have found right tyres to go on stock rims. The bus was on low profiles with fuchs previously, back to stock now :)

Appreciate the help

Take care

gvee said:
How low do you want to go?
Is your beam narrowed at all?

There's only so low you can go without narrowing.
Moreover there's only so low you can go without tubbing.

THaus and T2D use reverse ball-joint trailing arms with their modified spindles.
You can use your original arms using the FrenchSlammer ones.

I have a narrowed beam, tubs, and THaus dropped spindles. FrenchSlammer ones weren't available when I bought mine years ago, but I would seriously consider them now! I have it set nearly as low as possible on the adjusters and because I have the right shocks and tyres, the ride is real nice!

In terms of which shocks - I bought mine from Alex @ VWHeritage (I forget what type, sorry).
Getting the right length for your desired height is key. You need to put the bus on the ground without shocks, then roll it back and forth and jump around on it a bit to let the suspension settle. You then measure shock mount to shock mount the find the middle of your shock height. Fit the wrong height shocks and it will drive like dog dirt.

Tyres are important too, as you will no doubt be running lower profiles. You need a good, strong sidewall for our vans to roll on.

Last up comes tracking/alignment. Get it done at a proper place. I did it myself once and was out by 1deg on one side and 3 on the other. I could tell the difference after it was set up properly.
 
I had T'haus dropped spindles on my bus for almost 3 years. The ride was great as they had stock travel, I didn't have adjusters to reduce this. But... The tyres did rub. A lot!. I had 175/65 on stock rims wanting to keep the load rating reasonable. I tried three shock absorbers, originally KYBs - with them I had crazy rubbing, then I tried Spax ajustables - really nice ride but firming them up didn't stop the rubbing, then finally Gaz coil overs. These stopped the rubbing but lifted the front a bit and the ride was good, but bouncy. So not ideal.

This summer went with Frenchslammer and adjusters and the ride is ace. And the bus is lower :D (also narrowed beam and KYBs now)
The way I understand it is as the FS dropped spindles only drop you 2.5", the rest of the lowering is on the adjusters and this firms the ride up enough so you have much less rubbing whilst keeping good ride quality. So a mid way point between just using adjusters and just using 3.5" dropped spindles.

The FS spindles do increase track by 10mm(?) each side. Not really a problem with stock rims, but with alloys?....

I think if you decided to go with 3.5" spindles you definately need to factor in £200 Gaz shocks too or possibly air shocks to get a stress free ride. So more cost.

Hope this makes sense and helps your decision.
 
just had FS dropped spindles fitted on stock beam and gaz shocks (altho' I know Graham recommends KYB) running stock 14" wheels on 175/65 tyres
plus FS adjustable spring plates and KYB shocks on rear with 185/70 tyres
renewed ball joint gaitors and spring plate bushes at same time
ride is vastly improved, takes speed bumps/cushions/raised crossings and minor potholes like a modern car, no more banging and bottoming out
van is low but not slammed so tyre rub isn't an issue
previously lowered max on adjusters and 2 splines (I think) at rear
ride height is same, just set low enough to get in the garage
v happy with new set up
 
Pleased you are enjoying the new set up Gerry :), any pictures?
 
Thanks guys. Just wanted to confitm French slammers will be fine on a 1970 bay and will the fact my bump stops have be cut off make any difference?

Many thanks
 
dublicious said:
Thanks guys. Just wanted to confitm French slammers will be fine on a 1970 bay and will the fact my bump stops have be cut off make any difference?

Many thanks

If fitting just dropped spindles to the front you shouldn't have to cut your bump stops off, the arms sit in exactly the same place it's just the stub axle that moves up on the spindle.

Did you manage to raise the ride height on the beam?
 
Hi Graham,

The bump stops have already been cut off :/ Apparantly the girlfriend said I can have some workshop time this coming weekend! So will jack the bus up and release bolts to see how much play there is :)

Take care

Graham L said:
dublicious said:
Thanks guys. Just wanted to confitm French slammers will be fine on a 1970 bay and will the fact my bump stops have be cut off make any difference?

Many thanks

If fitting just dropped spindles to the front you shouldn't have to cut your bump stops off, the arms sit in exactly the same place it's just the stub axle that moves up on the spindle.

Did you manage to raise the ride height on the beam?
 
Any pics of yours?

Looking to do something like this on mine

gvee said:
How low do you want to go?
Is your beam narrowed at all?

There's only so low you can go without narrowing.
Moreover there's only so low you can go without tubbing.

THaus and T2D use reverse ball-joint trailing arms with their modified spindles.
You can use your original arms using the FrenchSlammer ones.

I have a narrowed beam, tubs, and THaus dropped spindles. FrenchSlammer ones weren't available when I bought mine years ago, but I would seriously consider them now! I have it set nearly as low as possible on the adjusters and because I have the right shocks and tyres, the ride is real nice!

In terms of which shocks - I bought mine from Alex @ VWHeritage (I forget what type, sorry).
Getting the right length for your desired height is key. You need to put the bus on the ground without shocks, then roll it back and forth and jump around on it a bit to let the suspension settle. You then measure shock mount to shock mount the find the middle of your shock height. Fit the wrong height shocks and it will drive like dog dirt.

Tyres are important too, as you will no doubt be running lower profiles. You need a good, strong sidewall for our vans to roll on.

Last up comes tracking/alignment. Get it done at a proper place. I did it myself once and was out by 1deg on one side and 3 on the other. I could tell the difference after it was set up properly.
 
Hi Graham,

I have not been able to raise the height on my beam, adjusters are completely off as is the shocks and still same height. Tried jacking up, dropping back, jumping around in the bus ...

Little bit stuck :/ I will upload some pics in a minute which may help





As you can see bump stops have been cut off.

Take care

Jamie


Graham L said:
dublicious said:
Thanks guys. Just wanted to confitm French slammers will be fine on a 1970 bay and will the fact my bump stops have be cut off make any difference?

Many thanks

If fitting just dropped spindles to the front you shouldn't have to cut your bump stops off, the arms sit in exactly the same place it's just the stub axle that moves up on the spindle.

Did you manage to raise the ride height on the beam?
 
anyone thoughts on how to release the adjusters? Popping up to the workshop tomorrow for another go! Take care
 
I ended up jacking against the wheel tubs, and using scaffold poles to add extra downward force. My adjusters were very stiff!

Eventually, the above did it... when combined with tapping the area around the adjusters with a large hammer to shock it into moving... :oops:

:lol:
 
Jacking against the wheel tubs eek :/ must have messed up the metal? Did you take off the wheels as not much to leverage on.

Appreciate your help :)



Tofufi said:
I ended up jacking against the wheel tubs, and using scaffold poles to add extra downward force. My adjusters were very stiff!

Eventually, the above did it... when combined with tapping the area around the adjusters with a large hammer to shock it into moving... :oops:

:lol:
 

Latest posts

Top