rear chassis notch pictures??
- Thread starter 71dormy
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dubscum
Well-known member
bit like this sideshow ? :msn4:
dubscum
Well-known member
i'm trying to find dave's crossover build, he did his rear notch's with a hole saw. I have different 3mm thick steal tubes to weld in if you need some mate
Rob b
Well-known member
This is what you wanna do
Thats one of the best ways ive seen it done an how i plan todo mine
Rob
Thats one of the best ways ive seen it done an how i plan todo mine
Rob
Grazy said:This sort of thing Austin ???
http://forum.earlybay.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18404&start=140" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
like this idea as not over keen on cutting the whole leg away.will have a look the weekend and keep the pics coming
Nick-Rackham
Well-known member
If I'd known Dude I'd have brought my hole saw and welder to VanFest
It's not too dificult to do, just get the centre in the right place, weld the bracing on first and away you go
It's not too dificult to do, just get the centre in the right place, weld the bracing on first and away you go
mychatype3
Well-known member
this what i did:
greetz mycha
greetz mycha
Rob b
Well-known member
Can we start a front notch topic
Rob
Rob
squareweave
Well-known member
evil ben said:
My way!!
How low down can this much notching get you?
Gadget Boy
Well-known member
You can get the bus down to within 10mm of the bottom of the heat exchangers with notches this size, typically thats a 3 spline drop , and with the kick of the spring plates a 4 spline .
Can i just remind people that although modding a bus with the little half moon notches is a quick and easy way to get down you take away half the strength of the rear chassis and create a '' Weak '' point .
I.E If the vehicle was involved in a rear shunt from behind then the bus would probaly fold inwards at the weakest point ..... The little half moons you've welded in .........
Thats the reason for welding in the 50mm x 100mm box section above the rear chassis notching to the chassis and the rear shock mount . This then restores the strength that you have taken out by putting in the notches . Also please ensure all the steel is clean before welding as this gives better strength to your welds . Personally if you can borrow a 190 amp welder this will be a better option for penetration as i firmly dont believe that a 130 is strong enough to do the job .
As you can see in the above picture Evil Ben has also welded a brace behind the torsion housing to the chassis leg to restore some of the lost strength when removing the torsion housing castings .
### Please remember that any idiot can modify a vehicle but it takes a good guy a while longer to modify it safely ###
Take a quick look at this its taken from the Citrus Valley build thread
With this much notching It will get real low, But realistically I want to drive the shit outta of it too so it will probably never get as far down as it Could .NOTE: Ive yet to flash any of the welding with the grinder. I want to clean up the welding and generally tidy it up But not too much as I still want all the strengh too ;D
Thats the A arm for the Irs so that would put the Hub way Up into the rear arch
## NOTE : Also when getting down this low, Your gunna run into Other problems like the A arm hitting the top lip of the inner mounting bracket, So with a bit of radius clearancing its soon sorted it . ##
Ive had to cut the rhs brake flexi hose bracket off as its mounted on top of the rhs inner A arm mounting bracket and ive got to now make it taller to clear the new radiusing. I will have to raise the bracket that holds the T piece for the rear brake fluid too as its mounted on the Lhs A arm mounting bracket : :
;D
Can i just remind people that although modding a bus with the little half moon notches is a quick and easy way to get down you take away half the strength of the rear chassis and create a '' Weak '' point .
I.E If the vehicle was involved in a rear shunt from behind then the bus would probaly fold inwards at the weakest point ..... The little half moons you've welded in .........
Thats the reason for welding in the 50mm x 100mm box section above the rear chassis notching to the chassis and the rear shock mount . This then restores the strength that you have taken out by putting in the notches . Also please ensure all the steel is clean before welding as this gives better strength to your welds . Personally if you can borrow a 190 amp welder this will be a better option for penetration as i firmly dont believe that a 130 is strong enough to do the job .
As you can see in the above picture Evil Ben has also welded a brace behind the torsion housing to the chassis leg to restore some of the lost strength when removing the torsion housing castings .
### Please remember that any idiot can modify a vehicle but it takes a good guy a while longer to modify it safely ###
Take a quick look at this its taken from the Citrus Valley build thread
With this much notching It will get real low, But realistically I want to drive the shit outta of it too so it will probably never get as far down as it Could .NOTE: Ive yet to flash any of the welding with the grinder. I want to clean up the welding and generally tidy it up But not too much as I still want all the strengh too ;D
Thats the A arm for the Irs so that would put the Hub way Up into the rear arch
## NOTE : Also when getting down this low, Your gunna run into Other problems like the A arm hitting the top lip of the inner mounting bracket, So with a bit of radius clearancing its soon sorted it . ##
Ive had to cut the rhs brake flexi hose bracket off as its mounted on top of the rhs inner A arm mounting bracket and ive got to now make it taller to clear the new radiusing. I will have to raise the bracket that holds the T piece for the rear brake fluid too as its mounted on the Lhs A arm mounting bracket :
:
Nick-Rackham
Well-known member
Hi Gadget, can I ask a couple of questions please? 1) do you remove the inner torsion bar to chassis bracing? looks like from one of the photo's that these have been removed? if so, is the bracing you weld above the notch just single chassis rail width? 2) you mention adding extra bracing to the torsion bar? not sure where this is unless I've missed it in the photo's, can you give more detail. Many thanks, Nick
