mcvw
Well-known member
on evilBay... *not* mine
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NSU RO80 Wheels
- Thread starter mcvw
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Justin & Muttley
Well-known member
I think they're great looking wheels - but they've been on offer a couple of times now!
I think that one of the downsides is that they're only 14" rims, but they've got quite a big offset so they'd tuck in nicely - definately make your bus stand out if you could get them to fit properly...
I think that one of the downsides is that they're only 14" rims, but they've got quite a big offset so they'd tuck in nicely - definately make your bus stand out if you could get them to fit properly...
mcvw
Well-known member
Aye :? current thinking is to run adaptors AND dropped spindles - but that potentially could add 35mm + per side... Which could result in having to get a narrowed beam?
Which is why I'm still considering the "flipped" dropped spindles from Slammedpanel - as they add no extra to the track - therefore the offset from the wheels will hopefully cancel out the extra 20mm or so from the adaptors. Well, that's what I hope :wink:
Which is why I'm still considering the "flipped" dropped spindles from Slammedpanel - as they add no extra to the track - therefore the offset from the wheels will hopefully cancel out the extra 20mm or so from the adaptors. Well, that's what I hope :wink:
Justin & Muttley
Well-known member
Sounds like a good plan - can you explain a bit more about the 'flipped' spindles?
mcvw
Well-known member
As per the slammedpanel website...
"Absolutely no welding, just a lot of fine machine work to give your baby
a full 4.3†inch drop! We do lots more than just work on the spindle body. The trailing arms also have to be machined and are fitted with four new push/pull ball joints. Wheelbase stays the same but you will have to
flip the rod ends, again for more frame clearance. All is sand-blasted/powder coated in satin black."
My use of "flipped" was in reference to the push/pull ball joints (see above pic) as they are fitted upside down. There has been some debate about this method on various forums - but I have yet to hear of anybody that has had problems with them.
I have sent emails (with questions) to the guys at slammedpanel and although they aren't the quickest at replying, the replies I have received have been very friendly and very helpful.
The only potential issue is that the push/pull ball joints are, and I quote Chris from slammedpanel, "only available thru us....for now" so hopefully by the time you'd need to fit new ball joints this wont be an issue at all?
Once the welding/spraying is complete on our bus I will be sending our spindles to slammedpanel (they work on your spindles - not a send/return core), and they anticipate a 3-4 week turnaround.
Hope the above is of some help.
Note: I do have some more descriptive text regarding the spindles in email replies from slammedpanel - but I wasn't sure if it would be correct for me to post this information without either contacting themselves or advice from a mod here.
Cheers,
Mike
"Absolutely no welding, just a lot of fine machine work to give your baby
a full 4.3†inch drop! We do lots more than just work on the spindle body. The trailing arms also have to be machined and are fitted with four new push/pull ball joints. Wheelbase stays the same but you will have to
flip the rod ends, again for more frame clearance. All is sand-blasted/powder coated in satin black."
My use of "flipped" was in reference to the push/pull ball joints (see above pic) as they are fitted upside down. There has been some debate about this method on various forums - but I have yet to hear of anybody that has had problems with them.
I have sent emails (with questions) to the guys at slammedpanel and although they aren't the quickest at replying, the replies I have received have been very friendly and very helpful.
The only potential issue is that the push/pull ball joints are, and I quote Chris from slammedpanel, "only available thru us....for now" so hopefully by the time you'd need to fit new ball joints this wont be an issue at all?
Once the welding/spraying is complete on our bus I will be sending our spindles to slammedpanel (they work on your spindles - not a send/return core), and they anticipate a 3-4 week turnaround.
Hope the above is of some help.
Note: I do have some more descriptive text regarding the spindles in email replies from slammedpanel - but I wasn't sure if it would be correct for me to post this information without either contacting themselves or advice from a mod here.
Cheers,
Mike
clyde
Well-known member
jabbo said:
What are you putting in your tea mate, these wheels look the Bomb and even better as they hardly ever turn up. £103 shit thats cheap, wish id seen them would have gladly paid double for them.
Just as a reminder
clyde
Well-known member
jabbo said:
14"s arent the agro some people think. You would hardly tell when youve got rubber on them and you can get plenty of choice in 14"s.
Go for skinnys on the front and fat rubber on the back and your onto a winner. Not really good bus rims mind unless you want the raked look.
mcvw
Well-known member
I'm with you on this on Clyde
Our bus will have enough rake to make Percy Thrower a happy man :lol:
Our bus will have enough rake to make Percy Thrower a happy man :lol:
I'm not saying 14s are aggro, just they're not to my taste, especially on something as big as a bus. I remember Paul Knights old Ghia had RO80 wheels on his orange and blue Ghia. They looked awesome on that. 8)
mcvw
Well-known member
Our 71 rolled out the factory on 14" wheels - so that's good enough for me
But I agree - each to their own.
But I agree - each to their own.
Justin & Muttley
Well-known member
The case for the defense rests, Your Honour...
Pic pinched from 68 Only's blog, sorry Dude!
Pic pinched from 68 Only's blog, sorry Dude!
G
Guest
Guest
just found this thread MCVW. i was thinking about getting the same thing done but the flipped ball joints are a concern for me.
Surely all the downward pressure on that single nut would be dangerous? and you dont have the taper from the joint into the trailing arms to take the pressure. I'd love to know exactly how these work.
and theres the added hassle of having to send the arms back every 2 years or so, to have new modified ball joints pressed into them?
Surely all the downward pressure on that single nut would be dangerous? and you dont have the taper from the joint into the trailing arms to take the pressure. I'd love to know exactly how these work.
and theres the added hassle of having to send the arms back every 2 years or so, to have new modified ball joints pressed into them?
