Ign key

70 bay when I go to start position and engine fires if I let the key go back it's not staying in the run position and engine stalls sometimes I can catch it and keep the engine running is it repairable or a new barrel.
Thanks

Dont know if this helps mine was starting fine then, would not turn on the key, i removed the ignition barrel and found the pin on the barrel that went into the electrical ignition switch was slightly twisted rather than take a chance with bending it back I ordered a new barrel and have not had any issues since, I was able to get the ignition switch and barrel out with out moving the steering wheel which was lucky.Try and remove the ignition switch first and turn it with a screwdriver to check its working at least it might give you a start point.

Thanks slippy8v, mine starts fine but as I said when you release the key it seems to just go past the second position on the barrel and engine cuts out. Out of interest were did you get the new barrel

Schofields http://www.alanhschofield.com/ourparts/prod_2519422-Ignition-Barrel-Keys-7079-T25-8092-113905855B.html

Thanks going to strip it down and see what's going on

Just a quick update the ign barrel the part with the wires had pushed out of the metal case

Hi,

Sounds very similar to the issue I have had on my late bay & on my fastback.

The late bay was my fault (not sure about the fastback as it was like it when I bought it) as I accidentally let the (live) terminal that goes to the choke unit touch the case of the choke unit itself (ground) when I was messing with the carbs (remember kids, ALWAYS disconnect battery when messing about). Shorting this out fried the ignition switch.

The symptoms were that you had to just get the engine to 'catch' and then let go of the key quickly to get it to stay running - position 1 of the key was giving power to coil, but then on cranking, power was lost to the coil.

Quick check to see if yours is suffering the same problem - take the rotor arm out so it won't start - turn the ignition on to position 1 & get someone to check that there is 12V running to the + side of the coil. There should be. Then crank the engine and check that there is still 12V running to the coil - if there is not, there's your problem, ignition switch fried.

I changed the ignition switch myself - relatively straightforward job, just a little tricky - I did post up a 'tutorial' some time ago but not sure how to find it?

You can keep the same ignition barell & key, you just need to change the switch behind the barell.

hope that helps mate.