Weber carb conversion issues

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iknowdavehouse

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Hi all,

I'm having trouble with either:

My bus revving up and having to jump out, run a round the back and push (the square gold part behind the top spring back) to lower the revs to a normal idle

OR

My bus cutting out immediately and having to jump out, run a round the back and pull (the square gold part behind the top spring back) to increase the revs to a normal idle

Someone who briefly looked at this thought it was a jerry-rigged fix but I've since seen this extension / two spring thing as part of a Weber conversion elsewhere.

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UPgqeKW.jpg


74KpLli.jpg


What do you think I should I adjust / change first?
 
I emailed Weber and they said it's been added afterwards, if anyone knows who produced these that would be great to know.

I've tried to contact the poster but the guy in this video has exactly the same set up - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cg0_TbTYhgo&t=1s
 
I'm not sure why there are two springs there should only be one. They look as though they are interfering with one another possibly causing the issues you describe.
Here's a pic of mine.
You should have the throttle cable clamped to the brass part then that has a spring attached to the front of the carb providing some resistance so that when you take your foot off the gas the revs die to an idle. I'll try to post a pic of mine.
 
Thanks so much for the pic, makes a lot of sense. I've ordered myself a new better quality single spring and see how that goes!
 
Better quality single spring and also a Butty's bits linkage for the accelerator pedal - anything to get the whole system working at a decent efficiency. If the cable is old it might be gunked up and replacement might help. Two springs suggests greater pulling power needed to return the throttle - if they're not returning it all the way it'll rev up of it's own accord and need persuading back into place...
 
After the new spring was fitted I'm fairly confident that it's now returning ok..

However now it's not revving up I think it has surfaced another issue, I'm assuming with my choke.

Here's a clip of 10 seconds after turning the ignition (stutters and drops out when pulling away slowly) going into a clip of the engine running after a few minutes.

Is the idle speed ok once it's warmed up too slow or is the only issue with the choke?

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9sJMi8ZctvE[/youtube]
 
It sounds ok in the second half but not the first. You may need to adjust the choke if you have one. I added one to mine but it worked ok without a one for quite a while. The choke is quite difficult to reach as it's round the back against the fan housing. Mine is an electronic choke by the way which is adjusted by loosening the mounting bolts and rotating it to suit.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
 
Definitely have a choke, and it's hooked up. I have no idea how I'm going to get to those screws though, I have a really small socket set with a screwdriver attachment but theres only about 1cm of space and even that's too big. I'm sure there's a way! :)
 

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