1968 RHD Rot Box

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I have been looking into brake light switches as well, been looking at other solutions as wondered if it was possible to remove the pressure brake light switches from the equation and use a mechanical switch attached to the brake pedal somewhere.

Turns out it is, I haven't done it yet but did get the switches from the US, thinking will probably end up keeping a pressure switch in the circuit for good measure / similar to the original vw design having two switches in the circuit in case one fails.

This is the article https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7964822
 
tmcg said:
I have been looking into brake light switches as well, been looking at other solutions as wondered if it was possible to remove the pressure brake light switches from the equation and use a mechanical switch attached to the brake pedal somewhere.

Turns out it is, I haven't done it yet but did get the switches from the US, thinking will probably end up keeping a pressure switch in the circuit for good measure / similar to the original vw design having two switches in the circuit in case one fails.

This is the article https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7964822

Another good solution, I had not thought of that. It is great to read about different solutions. :popcorn:

I assume the part of the mechanism that runs against the brake pedal shaft is on a roller, otherwise it would wear through.
 
cunning plan said:
smalltime.hillbilly said:
Okay so solved...almost. ended up buying the scofields cylinder, with the twin outputs for front brakes...

Good choice :party0021:

smalltime.hillbilly said:
on there website it says fits 68 onwards LH or RH but beware that early early chassis its a bit more of a ball ache.. basically you won't be able to fit switches to the cylinder.. AT ALL.. chassis rail just won't allow it.. I've had to blank them off and hope that moving my switch down the line will do the trick.. not sure if it'll work yet as I haven't bled it.. I'm sure someone will shed some light ( or tear me a new one )

I found the same issue, here was my solution:

IMG-20190322-080846.jpg


None of the pipes are touching the chassis and I've added little rubber 'buffers / rests' to the top of the master cylinder just incase they vibrate against it. Although it annoys me that this is a reconditioned master cylinder that has not had any road use and it has surface rust! :roll: I'll have to give it a touch up, add it to the list!! :?

IMG-20190322-080808.jpg


I have the rubber boots / covers for the sensors to protect them a bit, I am also thinking of adding some kind of removable cover over the whole master cylinder. :popcorn:

that looks neat af!.. true about the surface rust though, mines started to go too which is a bit crap but hey ho
 
tmcg said:
I have been looking into brake light switches as well, been looking at other solutions as wondered if it was possible to remove the pressure brake light switches from the equation and use a mechanical switch attached to the brake pedal somewhere.

Turns out it is, I haven't done it yet but did get the switches from the US, thinking will probably end up keeping a pressure switch in the circuit for good measure / similar to the original vw design having two switches in the circuit in case one fails.

This is the article https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7964822

someone on the samba was talking about this too, the switch on the pedal would work great tbh, next time that's what ill be doing
 
My 67 built bus has a cover that wraps around cyl, it also has 2 T piece connectors with the brake switches in and its defo stock!!!But then mine is EARLY early like Oct 12th built
 

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