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I'm using a 30A relay no problem.

Red drum, redrum, redrum... :lol:

I use BBQ paint, doesn't need to be high temp but it goes on well. (Plus anything other than black looks wrong IMHO) Don't paint the surface that the wheel bolts to, it can work loose when driving.

Creative Engineering hub/drum change on the back, might still be a tight fit though...

+1 I used B&Q polythene and gaffer tape.

Cool-air do them (trailing arms) on exchange AFAIK.

If it 'aint broke, fix it until it is? :P :lol:

Shorter leaves will make it stiffer, why did you change the beam?

Is 1100 a milestone?

I had one but never used it before selling on. Not much help, I know. :lol: I had a narrow band gauge before that but it was too erratic to be of much use.

Krazykombis here in Kilkenny did a conversion for a customer. That's only the tip of the proverbial iceberg. :D

A bit tight in a oval too, I'd much prefer a type2 engine bay. :mrgreen:

Do you have a pic? What do the pushrods sit into?

0?

Ah, didn't spot the horse-shoe plates. ;)

Flat4s with adapters. Flat4 are the only ones with a decent offset (45) to counter the increase in track created by the 'dapters.

Did you do the same for the a-arm?

DON'T get the MWS wheels, get the new Heritage/SSP ones - much nicer wheels and the offset will increase the range of tyres you can fit.

Thanks for the tip, I'll sort something secure. ;)

What year bay? You might get them on ET20s if you roll the inner lip on a 71+ arch.